Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.
The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.
“I am totally shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.
The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.
It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.
The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.
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